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| The rusting remains of HMAS Protector lie offshore of Heron Island, forming a breakwater. (ABC News: Jasmine Hines) |
By Jasmine Hines and Scout Wallen
This crumbling shipwreck on the Great Barrier Reef was bought for just 10 pounds in World War II.
Now a haven for marine life and a tourist attraction, HMAS Protector had a rich history as one of Australia's first navy ships before it collided with a tug and was abandoned off the coast of Gladstone in central Queensland.
"The shipwreck has a magnificent history," the University of Queensland's Dr Stuart Kininmonth said.
He manages the university's research station on Heron Island which studies the impact of climate change on the reef.
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| Dr Stuart Kininmonth has been visiting Heron Island since he was a child. (ABC News: Scout Wallen) "In the very early '40s the boat was bought by [Captain Christian] Poulsen, who owned the resort here, for 10 pounds," he said. |
"He dragged it literally across from Gladstone and put it on the reef. At the same time they blew this channel [with explosives] into the [Heron Island] harbour and it became part of the harbour."
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| The Queensland Government says visitors should avoid swimming near the wreck as it can be a safety hazard. (ABC News: Jasmine Hines) |
In the 50 years since Dr Kininmonth first visited Heron as a child the shipwreck has morphed from a solid wreck to a rusted-out shell of its former glory.
He vividly remembers climbing the ship in 1974 in an era when the site was less regulated.
As a boy he would run across the teak deck, which Dr Kininmonth said has only collapsed in recent years.
"You can still see the shape of the ship and get a feel for how it was put together and how its sitting there, majestically guarding the harbour of Heron Island."
Ecologically 'the king'
Tourists and researchers snorkel around the shipwreck to see bustling marine life, however anyone caught interfering with the wreck can be fined up to $250,400 as it is a protected site.
"Ecologically, and from a tourist point of view, it's the king," Dr Kininmonth said.
"You go to that ship and you will see so many fantastic things because all the fish, sharks, and turtles and rays are all enjoying the habitat around the ship. It provides them a lot of security."
More than 16,000 tourists visited the island in 2024, while many more researchers and students also travel to Heron every year to study the reef.
Tourist Joshua Scutts and his son Harvey snorkelled near the shipwreck recently.
"When you're standing on the beach you don't know what to expect … [but there's] plenty of turtles, reef fish, big fish," he said.
"It's our first time on Heron and it's all about the nature. You're in paradise, there's no-one around and it's like you're on another planet."
However, the Department of Environment, Tourism, Science and Innovation urged tourists to avoid swimming around the shipwreck as it is not safe.
"Not only is the vessel deteriorating, with sharp edges and parts that can fall into the water, it's also a protected heritage site," a spokesperson said.
"HMAS Protector is the only Australian vessel to serve in three wars … so it should be treated with the reverence and respect it deserves."
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| A ray swimming near the shipwreck. (Supplied: Jacqueline Reeves) |
South Australia's protector
The director of the Royal Australian Navy's Sea Power Centre, Captain Alastair Cooper, said the ship was built to protect the South Australian government's ports.
At the time, he said the colony was concerned about the Russian empire expanding.
It was then known as Her Majesty's Colonial Ship (HMCS) Protector.
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| The HMCS Protector during construction on the slipway at Newcastle-upon-Tyne. (Supplied: Royal Australian Navy) |
The ship was built at a cost of 65,000 pounds in Newcastle, England, and entered South Australia's service in 1884.
"They were called flat iron gunboats because when you looked at them from the side they resembled the type of flat iron that you poured hot coals into to iron your clothes in the 19th century," Captain Cooper said.
The first 15 years of the Protector's service mainly revolved around training in and around South Australia.
In 1900 she was offered to the British Imperial Government for service in the Boxer Rebellion in China where she was used to help with communications.
According to the Sea Power Centre, the gun boat was in Sydney in 1901 for the Federation of Australia and became one of the country's first navy ships.
In 1911, following the creation of the Royal Australian Navy, she then became known as the HMAS Protector.
Captain Cooper said when World War I broke out the ship was Australia's first deployment overseas when she was sent to escort submarines to help capture German New Guinea colonies.
"After that campaign she defended trade and escorted vessels, [and] did mine clearance around the Australian coast for the remainder of the war," Captain Cooper said.
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| The HMAS Protector with one of Australia's E class submarines during World War I, by marine artist John Ford. (Supplied: Royal Australian Navy) |
The ship was later sold and used to transport wool around the port of Melbourne.
Then in World War II the US requisitioned the ship for service again in New Guinea.
During the voyage it collided with a tug and was beached off the coast of Gladstone, where Captain Poulsen bought it in 1944 to be tugged to Heron Island.
About five years later, he went missing in nearby waters.
While his upturned dinghy was found south of Gladstone, Captain Poulsen was never found.
First published at ABC News, January 20, 2025
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